Lesson 11 : The Sandwich Aproach

What you have never heard of the Sandwich Approach!!!!!!

One of the most important survival technique in modern society!

Great for marital bliss! A cornerstone in adolescent upbringing! Noted by all MBAs as an essential management tool!!!!

This approach in marriage context goes like this! As you all know marriage is a series of "negociations" so that both ( or more persons) will be happy!

In this context the sandwich approach requires that you always begin with a positive note or observation! Often acknowledging how the "other half" has excellent ideas! Then you present your position. You follow with another positive suggestion such as, "you are sure we will find a common solution"


In the adolescent context follow the same formula. Be positive first. This will shock adolescent to listen for more compliments since they are so rare.Then give your observations and quickly follow with positive end!



I know , I know you are wondering what this has to do with ski tuning.

Think sandwich when you get to wax application. That is three layers which are unified for pleasure! Like marriage. Easy.

The first layer is the structured ski base.

The second layer is the wax

The third layer is the structure on wax.


This concept will hold for all conditions. All that will change is the type of wax and structure type!

Let us look at first layer: the base

You must decide what kind of structure you want based on your local conditions. I am sure you remember that this structure is based on mainly snow type and temperature.

In my case I love to use my roto brushes since I have often 3-5 pairs of skis to do. The brushes on a shaft and driven by drill allow me to be create patterns for my area. You can use hand brushes,scrub pads, even sandpaper (softly)!
The goal is to create channels to allow snow/water particles to flow!

Clean base with paper towel! From now on NEVER touch base with bare hands! Think clean at all times.Use paper towels after every step!


Middle layer of sandwich.
This is the "meat" layer----the wax.
You must practice a great deal the application of wax on ski base. You must think of the ski base like a sponge and the wax as a "liquid" which must penetrate INTO base! That is why your application will be far better than your friend who went to shop! In most shops they have a machine that holds melted wax in a heated container and a heated roller applies wax on ski base surface! It is done so fast that a very small layer is applied TO SURFACE!

This is the procedure that separates the really good tuners! You will note in many videos or booklets they place 2" tape on sides. This is to protect bindings from "spill offs". After some time you will learn how to control wax flow and very little wax spill off will occur.

Here is the correct procedure!
1. Heat iron up so that it melts wax well but never smokes up wax!

2. Turn iron upside down so that tip is near ski base.

3. Place wax bar on middle of iron not tip so that it will flow down hot section of iron and flow ( not drip) unto ski base! I insist on the flow,,,NOT DRIP condition, since the wax will solidify instantaneously if you allow drip! This will cause other problems ( which I am sure you have discovered)!

You will have to re-heat all the drippings on ski base which will make a mess!

Here is the secret that all good tuners have discovered. It is flow! Flow in terms of wax! Flow in terms of movement! Flow in terms of speed!

In one fast and uniform manner you must; flow wax on ski base from tip to tail and back.
Drop wax bar on clean towel. Turn iron over quickly and lay on ski base.
Move iron on wax layer BEFORE it solidifies!

It can be done and you will be able to do it in some months! Here are some typical errors! Many many neophyte tuners are so mesmerized by this wax flow from iron to ski base, that they watch carefully the wax. This is very much what beginner golfers do when they want to see their ball sail off! They look up to early....thus,,,

DO not look at wax flowing. Just get it done fast before wax sets!

Speed is essential here. Get wax on base as fast as possible in zig-zag pattern!

You will learn later that you can control flow by how you set wax bar on iron, thus you can have a small bead like line or a wide string like line!

You want the wax to remain as liquid, thus as you pass iron back and forth on base it heats up base even more. The heat "opens" the base pores and wax penetrates INTO base! Now you can watch wax and base and if you are observant you will notice some fascinating patterns!
It is critical that you watch carefully the wax as it solidifies now. It is like reading tea leaves. The wax is telling you a lot about you, your base and your application!

Look at the very edges of the ski! What do you see? Look at the ski base center. Do you have zones that seem not to have wax?

Do you have tiny particles floating in some sections?

Do you have "fault lines"?

Does wax bubble or "spit" as you apply!


All of these tell you a "mistake" you are making. I let you discover these mistakes!

At the very end of this stage, you should perhaps apply some more wax and pass iron slowly evenly over ski base in order to make ONE LAST EVEN coat!

Let ski rest horizontally NOT vertically against wall!


After wax is solidified. Scrape wax off so that you have one clean even surface. It will not be perfect first couple of times. That comes with experience. Note also that you want to take of the minimum wax possible.

Back to our sandwich .

Do you remember the structure you placed on ski base BEFORE applying wax! Now you want to "create" same structure on the wax! Stroke base with wax from tip to tail, making the grooves with nylon brush, nylon pad, rollers! You decide!

Clean edges with plastic scraper. If you have the special scrapper there is a notch just for such operation! Clean wax off sidewalls!

Place a piece of paper between two skis ( I use old carpets pieces) Place two skis together.

Go have a nice drink. You deserve it.

Pavel, I have a question I should have asked after the structuring lesson but I didn't and since you are speaking of structuring here again ... I'll ask it now.

You mentioned some of the brass tools for structuring to give a pattern of sorts... what might you say to a suggestion of using a very fine tooth hack saw blade to provide the grooviness? It would possibly need to be mounted for rigidity - but what do you think? If it is a good suggestion then it's my suggestion and it if is a bad idea, then it's one I heard from a snowboarder down the street :!:

Mike :-)

Mike,

I saw such question asked on another site! I do not recommend it since you want to change the structure at one point and with hacksaw blade those "grooves" really are set!

I tested using my hacksaw blade on an old pair of skis! Disaster!

Sorry Mike!

Thanks Pavel, I'll leave the hacksaw to cutting and not structuring.

But another question... you say to take off the minimum amount of wax. A couple of years ago when I waxed the skis - before your visit and not with candle wax - they stuck like glue for most of the morning's "skiing" until I worked the surface with a plastic pot scrubber I keep in the ski bag. I had left too much wax on the skis ... or perhaps there was not enough (if any structure) to brake the suction build up between the ski and the snow. Which do you think was my greater problem. I must have misunderstood. I thought we wanted to scrape all the wax off. If we leave lots of wax on the ski don't we need a fairly deep structured groovyness?

Thanks

Mike

Taking wax "off".

There are two problems I see very often with "beginner" tuners.

1. They do not know how to control the flow of wax unto ski base. So too much wax is applied to base and even "overflows" to sidewalls and bindings!

2.They do not get even wax surface. That is there is a series of up and down "plateaus" as a result of their back and forth iron motions. It is critical that the last pass be smooth and even. Thus creating a uniform layer of wax.


If you use ski edges as guides when you take off wax, us should have just the right amount of wax! I suggest using plastic scrapper first since it takes off wax less "aggressively" than metal scrapper!


The stickiness feeling you had was due to "poor" selection of wax type. In the -5 to - 20 degree weather with groomed slopes wax selection is not difficult!

However in the extreme ranges, ie -30 range ( yes Candians do ski in -30 degrees) you MUST use hard, very hard wax!


In the Spring is where many many skiers have problems selecting waxes because of the great change in temperature and sun exposure. This also happens in the high altitude "glacier" skiing.

In the morning it might be, -10,,,then by 11 AM it is 0 degrees and by 2 PM it is + 10!

There is a two prong solutions to this problem. In my next class we will address this issue! This class will be entitled, "the triple decker sandwich"

Imaging if you had your tuning log then. You could have looked back and noted what wax you used and what structure options you used! I can not stress how important it is for tuners to keep logs of their work! That is how you will learn from your errors and successes!

Thanks again, Pavel.

I expect the wax was a "universal" sample from the ski hill ski shop. I can't remember the temperature of the day. And I'm suprised I didn't keep a waxing log back then. I will from here on out!

Mike

Mike,

You just gave me a chance to mention to all serious tuners never use this "universal" wax ( except at end of season to cover ski edges)!

It is very much like an "all-round" ski! Does a lot of things well but not one condition very very well! I feel all skiers should strive for excellence. The very best they can do! If you get a wax bar that is good for all seasons,,,,,, it will stick in hot sunny days!

And that "all-round" ski will vibrate on ice, will be too stiff for powder and force you to be intermediate forever! One run on a "hot" ski is worth a season on a so so ski!


Oh yes,,,, never use those spray waxes! Junk!

I got some 100 free wax tissues ( pads with wax in them) from a major wax company to test! Again junk! Waste of time!

Stick with 1 kilogram bars!

Buy three types;
1. 0-+12 temperature

2. 0- -12 temperature range

3. -15 and colder range