Lesson 6: Getting ski ready

I have to accelerate course since I you will not "hear" from me for some time ( two-three weeks)!

I will assume you have a old ski as "practice ski. You have "calibrated" the iron and you have the basic tools.

The first step is to clean ski with shop rag. I use a paper type paper roll special for mechanics or shop workers. It is thicker and seems to "catch" all metal pieces. I also never use same piece over!

Do visual verification of ski and bindings for damage! I will send to students the many cuts , de-laminations, breaks etc...that some skis "suffered".

Most modern bindings are well designed and are robust, however the screws seem to loosen over time so visually check them! If you have the Rossi racing units (based on the Look design, with round table base) the rear long screws do weaken! Check them every month!

Turn ski over so base is facing ceiling. visually check base. If you have small scratches no problem! If you have serious grooves you will learn later how to either fill in groove with Ptex 'noodles' or cut out section and replace with a whole new section!

I like to use a 200 grit sand block to get a nice "groovy" base with all lines parallel from tip to tail. Of course if you have previous wax you must brush off old wax with stiff brush. I use a roto brush which is a round brush on metal shaft powered with a drill since I often have 15 pair to do!
Just saves time!

First golden Guidelines
Always start with course to fine in brushes and paper
Always work with same tools so that you get to know tools
Always use minimum pressure. It is better to do 10 passes then to try to do one with coarse hard force

Remember this is a clean up! You want a clean ski base!
So be free with paper towel!

Look at ski edges. Then feel ski edges with finger. Do not look at edges while you pass your finger over edges. You want to learn to "feel" a uniform sharp ski edge!

I find my sense of touch is superior!

Note damage sections with black marker! You will have three types of damage. Dings, which are inner ski edge "grooves" or valleys. Burrs, which are very sharp and irregular outward sections and serious edge deviations.

Those sections must be "cleaned" since they are problematic if you use just a file. Without getting technical your ski edges have a "hardness" level measured in a Rockwell Scale" Oncer you hit a rock, cement etc..that section gets even more hard! You must use a Diamond stick or a tool made for this function!

Another golden guideline.
Once you start this process, NEVER BUT NEVER pass finger over ski edge. You have now metal pieces that are like knives which will cut you, infect you etc...
From now on use only paper towels!

If you get fanatic like me, buy a small jewelers magnifying glass and look at area you work on!

Dings which go inward must be passed to make end sections even. Do not try to "take out" dings since you will have a "wavy" ski edge.

Serious edge damage ie deviations are better repaired by pro!

Once you have "clean" even ski you must check the relationship of the base material - that white or black plastic material and the two metal edges.

This is where your TRUE BAR come into play!
There are two techniques used. You decide which you like!

I like to place ski on my shoulder with base facing up and tip towards light source. Pass your true bar from tip to tail looking at interface zone just below the true bar.

On a good ski you should see a very thin uniform line of light, or no light.

On a poor ski you will see two varied lines.
One in which the center has more light. This is called concaved ski

On the other you will see more light at edges and no light at center. This is called convex ski!

All ski site have an illustration of this. I will send to students some illustations !

A small discussion is in order here!
New ski design has changed a great deal the skiing world. More than you think. Atomic since 2006 produces some skis with a slight concave base. The engineers are trying all sorts of ways to make your skiing easier and giving more performance!
Another golden rule which seems to be changing! No one at Atomic seems to be able to explain to me why this concave base is so! ( on some models)! I have spoken to the Wintersteiger company to see what they do about this! Again no clear responce.

So if you go to any ski shop and have your concaved designed Atomics stone grounded you will have a perfectly flat base!

Such is the state of affairs!

I have a pair of SL 12 Atomics and I keep that slight concave feature! You decide what you want!


Many skiers forget which is which. Convex/concave. Here is a hint. CAVE means going INTO something. A concave base is going into the ski!

If you have a convex ski, you must sand down Ptex base material. Here is where you MUST have a sanding block since you must have a uniform level. Never but never sand using just hands!

Start with 150 grit paper from tip to tail. Check ski base with true bar every 3-4 pass! Use minimal force since you do not want to make deep grooves!

Once you have flat ski base use 180 paper! Then 200 paper!


A concave base is another issue! I can show you how to use a serious Panzer file but I have found it is better to take skis to shop and have them do two passes on stone! It usually costs $10 and is good for a season. If some want to learn how to use Panzer file I will send them via PM instructions.

Remember again to clean base after every 2/3 pass. I will not repeat this so just remember to clean ski as you work! Not just at end of process!

Go ahead now. Get hands dirty and enjoy!

The next series of classes will be noted Lesson 6 : Getting ski ready A, B, C, and so on....